Unlike the makeup of the heroes of kabuki, this curry keeps its appearance simple.
Inside the resplendent Kabuki-za Theater in Ginza, Tokyo, is a relaxing escape from the hustle and bustle of the city’s streets in a cozy, wood-accented cafe called Cafe Hinoki, which is open to anyone, whether you have a ticket to see one of the acclaimed kabuki performances or not.
Upon sitting down at one of the tables and perusing the menu, there is one limited-time dish that stands out from the others, reading: “a reproduction of the original Oriental Curry,” a nostalgic dish that was once served over a decade ago in the former curry corner of the theater.
▼ At a reasonably priced 1,100 yen (US$7.11)
The picture boasts a hearty, comforting curry packed with chunky potatoes, carrots, tender meat, and high expectations for a little taste of history.
Surprisingly, once the dish arrives, the actual version seems to have a more modest appearance than its picture: a simple serving of curry beside a mound of rice, garnished with only a small spoonful of fukujinzuke pickles.
Yet beneath the minimalistic presentation lies a deliciously spicy curry with a pleasant fruity sweetness.
The roux, made without the flour of a typical Japanese curry, is simmered with onions, tomatoes, apples, and a special chutney, which blends mangoes, raisins, and spices. The result is an Indian-style curry which foregoes the image of a mild, old-fashioned taste in favor of a more modern spicy kick.
While the theater has a gorgeous exterior, Cafe Hinoki has a peaceful and approachable atmosphere, showcasing the beauty of the Kabuki-za Theater in a more casual setting.
This charming cafe is situated on the first floor of the theater, with an internal entrance through a souvenir shop, and an external one down the side of the building. This external entrance adds to the ease of stopping in for a leisurely lunch, or some light refreshments, during a stroll through Ginza’s streets. In addition to curry, Cafe Hinoki offers a selection of sandwiches, desserts, and light meals, making it a place that can be enjoyed at any time of the day, although the cafe is reserved for theater guests only during the performance’s intermissions.
If you order the Oriental Curry expecting a curry full of chunky ingredients, you’ll be in for a surprise. However, you will in no way regret the level of deliciousness that is contained within its humble appearance.
Store information
Kissashitsu Hinoki / 喫茶室 檜
Address: Tokyo-to, Chuo-ku, Ginza 4-12-15
東京都中央区銀座4-12-15
Open: 10:00 a.m.–4:30 p.m. (for non-theater guests / last order is 4:00 p.m.)
Closed during intermissions to avoid overcrowding between 11:50 a.m.–1:25 p.m. and 2:00 p.m.–2:50 p.m.
Website
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